A trip to The Centre of the Universe; Fremont, Seattle

Back in Seattle. The little ones have started their new school term, Shawni and Craig are into their working routine and we are riding the 62 bus which takes us into Downtown Seattle. 

Fremont has a signpost that says it's the Centre of the Universe. The story goes that two scientists in 1991 concluded that there was no evidence for a centre of the universe, so why not right here in Fremont. Good enough reason for us to hop off the bus and stroll around.

This Seattle neighbourhood is on Union Lake.  I had been wanting to watch seaplanes and Gas Works Park on the Lake is the perfect vantage point. The rest of our walk evolved and kept delighting us, especially the marina condos.

Gasworks Marina Condominium, sparkling in the winter sun.
A glimpse of an alternative lifestyle and a glimpse of a cold water swimmer. Both rather appealed to me in the moment.

Union Lake, Seattle

Watching the comings and goings of seaplanes on Union Lake from Gas Works Park.

On our way to our lunch venue we found this piece of the Berlin Wall in Fremont, commemorating the role of Seattle and Boeing's C-47 in the Berlin Airlift of 1948.

A day out in Fremont, easy, trendy, quirky, a perfect pretzel and yet another interesting perspective on this fabulous city.

If it's Monday it's Multnomah Fall, Columbia River Gorge

We were on the Oregon side of the Gorge and the geology of the gorge has created a number of spectacular waterfalls falling precipitously from the steep cliffs. 

We headed to the most visited scenic site in Oregon, the Multnomah Falls, apparently the second-highest year-round waterfall in the USA. So two million people visit each year and it will be two million and two this year as the Kersten's have been.

The upper falls recede faster than the lower falls and they plunge into a rock pool that seems to roar and rumble before flowing under the historic bridge over the lower falls.

The noise of the two sets of falls is quite something to experience.

A height of 620 feet!

Significance of the height of this plunge waterfall is that we hiked the 11 switchbacks to get right to the top of falls, a 1 1/4 mile path!
What an experience to stand on a platform that extends out over the lip of the falls!

In the 'hood'. Mt Hood and driving the scenic Mount Hood Highway, Oregon

A moment of joy when Mt Hood could be seen on our road trip from Central Oregon up to the Columbia River.

A brief detour down the Old Dufur Road, just magical scenery.

Foothills of the Cascades, winter colours so peaceful.

We navigated the descent from the High Desert of Central Oregon, past Mt Hood and connected with the Columbia River at The Dalles. Exploring this section of I 84, the US 30 and 14 is our final destination in Oregon.

The Bridge of the Gods over the Columbia River.

Our first stop was the Bridge of the Gods high above the Columbia River Gorge. 

A bridge of many stories.

As we pulled up I suddenly connected all the dots - buying Cheryl Strayed' book "Wild" (2012) when I was last in Oregon from the famous Powell's Books in Portland; loving her story and her remarkable 1100 mile hike on the PCT; watching Reese Witherspoon in the movie adaption of the book (2014); and the Bridge of the Gods is a key moment in the book and in the movie when Strayed completes her hike on this Oregon-Washington State line.

We paid the toll and crossed the mighty Columbia River on this iconic bridge in the mist and rain. A special moment experiencing technical mastery and nature in the same place.

I think this is a good time to watch the movie again and to pay special attention to the Oregon scenery and to this bridge.

And of course, I am remembering being here at Mt Hood in the summer of 2014 with Shawni and Craig.
It was the year of their wedding in the Bahamas, and Fred and I spent 3 months travelling the west coast of the USA, visiting all the national parks. The kids joined us for a couple of weeks,  we were in Oregon to explore Mt Hood and in Montana for Yellowstone.

Pilot Butte; cinder cone in Bend, Oregon

A popular Bend activity is to walk the trails that wind around Pilot Butte. The 480 foot butte is an extinct cinder cone right in the town. 

The 360 degree views along the way are of the high desert around Bend, the peaks of the Cascades Range were obscured by the low clouds but it was still interesting to see all the evidence of volcanic activity that defines the region. 

Enjoying the cold, fresh air while we navigated some of the icy conditions on the trail.

This mornings 5 km walk up and down the butte.

Sagebrush and western junipers are the common flora and the only birds we noticed were a pair of Clark's Nutcrackers.

A morning in the 'biggest small town downtown'; Sisters, Oregon

Sisters at the eastern foothills of the Cascades has a small town western feel, with art galleries, vintage stores, and excellent coffee. A good way to spend a morning with the family. 

I am bunkered down for the afternoon at the window with a view, the 'boys' are braving a round of golf, the 'girls' are off swimming. 

Sisters motto: "The West at its Best"

A walk through Sisters is an experience in itself.

Beauty of trees on a path; Eagle Crest Resort

We have a beautiful lounge with a cosy fire going overlooking the canyon and the fast flowing Deschutes River here at Eagle Crest Resort. The big blue skies of our first few days in Central Oregon have changed to low cloud with misty rainy conditions. 

It's been rather nice to slow down, to watch the early morning snow, to read, to have a swim in a heated outdoor pool (only managed 15 minutes), to sit in the spa and to take gentle walks along the Deschutes River Trails. The trees and the winter colours along the trail are captivating.

The beauty of trees-Western Junipers- along our trail!

Just love these moss covered branches.

An even a bonsai growing valiantly out of the rock

PS: I set out again this afternoon, the skies had cleared, the sun even came out and the trail was calling.
So wonderful to have this beauty around me.

The River Trail, our favourite walk, heading out again before we leave.

Last day of 2024; the Crooked River Trail, Smith Rock State Park

To close out this year we chose to be in nature, on a path with a camera and binoculars. Smith Rock is  popular High Desert Central Oregon State Park and close to our accommodation here at Eagle Crest Resort.  

Crooked River, Smith Rock State Park

The geology of the park is quite unique, the majestic rock formations are welded tuff which is compressed volcanic ash, something new for us, which was formed 30 million years ago!

Welded Tuff, compressed volcanic ash

Imposing walls along the trail.

We chose to walk the 7 km River Trail and loved the contrast of the fast flowing Crooked River and the imposing rock formations. I love these cold weather walks and I quietly reflected on this year, so much to feel gratitude for and thank you Fred for the support and being on the path.

Crooked River and our trail on the right hand bank.
We added a pair a Barrow's Goldeneye's and a Townsend's Solitaire to our holiday birding list.

Stark contrast of the Central Oregon high desert landscape and the majestic Cascade Range snow-capped peaks. 

All in a day; from sea level to the snow line at 1468m

We woke up to a clear morning on the Pacific Coast and I was happily watching Surf Scoters diving in the surf below our Inn. 

After our brunch of Dungeness crab cakes we headed off inland to cross the Cascades Range in central Oregon via the Santiam Pass, some 200 kilometres from the coast. From sea spray to snow in a few hours!

There was a severe winter weather cautionary posted for the pass and Fred went off early to buy chains for our vehicle, in itself an adventure, fortunately they were not needed as the pass is heavily salted and frequently graded. 

The scenic route is charmingly called 'Over the Rivers & Through the Woods Scenic Byway' with towns like Sweet Home and Sisters along the way and it generally follows the route of the historic Santiam Wagon Road. 

Another surprise was that west of the Cascade Range was lush, emerald green with rushing streams and stagnant water everywhere, then up and over the mountains the east is gold tones and dry. 

From Depoe Bay to Santiam Pass, Central Oregon

We are now settled onto our timeshare near Redmond and Bend for the week.

Twixmas

So I was intrigued by an Instagram meme defining 'Twixmas'. 

Here is my version:

An invigorating beach walk in the rain 

A roaring fire while I blog 
Remembering a highlight dinner from last night, a completely delicious ossobucco with mushroom risotto
Sharing a bottle of sauvignon blanc, crisp and dry with a tropical fruit note, with Shawni and Craig
Watching gulls on the beach
Checking into our Marilyn Monroe themed room on the Moolack Shores Inn north of Newport, Oregon

These are the days between Christmas and New Year, cosy tonight, pyjamas on, waiting for a peanut butter sourdough sandwich and coffee, a book next to the bed, the ocean as a background sound and I not sure what the date is.

Tomorrow we make our way across the Cascades towards Bend for a week. And the days will unfold and the New Year is ahead of us.

WildLanterns at Woodlands Zoo, Seattle

An immersive and truly wild wonder at the Woodland Zoo. 

As dusk fell, we layered on clothes and ambled through the exquisitely creative and enormous lantern installations. The lanterns were animated and colourful and the attention to detail quite remarkable; frogs with nictitating eyelids, lizards with tongues popping out, butterfly wings flapping, Pegasus flying, owls rotating their heads, peacocks flaunting their plumes, slumbering bears breathing, underwater otters swimming, monkeys and birds in the trees. Roses, irises, lotus lilies, proteas, and sunflowers a joy to see.

What an enchanting holiday outing!

Christmas excitement and mayhem

Early morning coffee and kids (and adults) all excited. Santa certainly dropped a pile of presents for the Hadfield's, Kersten's and Date's here in Seattle. 

I have loved the build up to Christmas, the planning, the shopping, the provisioning, the cooking, the setting of the table and being here with some of our family. A special time and much gratitude as always for feeling well and strong.

The girls go to the Ballet, our Christmas treat

 

A Seattle tradition, The Nutcracker.

A Christmas treat indeed, a towering Christmas Tree, Clara with her beloved Nutcracker, bunny pulling the Mouse King's tail, a dozen golden angels, a Green Tea Cricket, Mother Ginger showing off her flock of dancing children and a pair of prancing reindeer that take flight. 

The ballet was enchanting, the Sugar Plum Fairy and Cavalier performed a quite sublime pas de deux and we loved it all.

It's now Christmas Eve. We all strolled around Green Lake on a mildish, sunny Seattle afternoon.  Shawni and I prepped two delicious soups, a corn and shrimp chowder and a maple roasted butternut soup.  

The evening with excited kids "one more sleep" and with Jason and Elle down from Vancouver was so happy. Our families are far away in South Africa, Australia, Ireland, Netherlands and Singapore and we all felt gratitude for being together here in Seattle in Craig and Shawni's home.

The presents are under the tree and we are quietly going to bed and I think we are last in the world to celebrate!

Christmas Eve in Seattle.

A Sunday afternoon at the Seattle Public Library

The gang headed off to the Lumen Field to watch the Seattle Seahawks NFL game against the Minnesota Vikings for the afternoon which gave me a good excuse to take the little ones to the downtown Seattle library. 

I had read about the 11 floor library building which is a stand-out architectural gem of steel, glass and form in the city.  Its innovative 4-story Book Spiral, distinctive spaces and murals are an attraction.

An eye-catching mural!

And an eye-catching striking building - the SPL or Seattle Public Library, designed by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. 

The book spiral creates strange interior perspectives!

Having fun exploring the interior and playing in the Children's Room.