A return visit: Apricus Osteria and Bar, Apricale

The approach to Apricale, breathtaking even on the second viewing

There is a spaciousness about having a week in one place and that has always been the pleasure of our timeshare swops around the world. 

Ambling through the village

Here on the Cote d'Azur we are nestled between Nice and Menton with Italy on our doorstep. 

We have appreciated the choices of how to put our days together and yesterday we got to go back to Apricale, the hilltop Ligurian village, for another round of delicious food and another amble through the ancient old streets. 

It's a rare treat to return to an isolated destination like Apricale and I am so mindful that these set of circumstances that find us here, are unlikely to happen again.

And what a difference to Sunday. 

The crowds had dissipated, there were no rally drivers revving up the narrow steep streets, we got to breathe in the milder more humid air and to just take in so much more of the detail of the thousand years of history in this village. 

We even found the ancient communal bread ovens, the villagers would prepare their dough and come to the 'forno' for the baking, it was used until the 1940's when the last baker stopped his fine trade.

Apricus details.

Once again we ate with joy, my burrata and fresh peaches were a perfect late summer starter and equally Fred's carpaccio was delicious. We just happily sat back with the views of Apricale and had our courses.

We also took the opportunity to natter to the maitre d about their relationship with Chef Jan and he shared lots of stories and news which was entertaining indeed and we shared a good laugh.

Sidebar: we have a late afternoon swim here at Le Golfe Bleu which is such a treat after a day out and of course after all the delicious food. We have been meeting people too at the pool. So yesterday we had a note taped to our door, an invitation for a sundowner. The American couple on our floor have owned a unit here for 25 years and it's setting is one of the best in the complex. It sure was lovely to sit back and take in the sunset, watch all the lights come on in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin with conversation rolling from one topic to another. 

A Sunday lunch in Italy: Apricale

 

One of Chef Jan's favourite getaway spot, the Italian town of Apricale

I watched season 1 of Jan some years back. 

I remember being completely taken by an aerial shoot of a hilltop Italian town nestled in the Ligurian Alps in one of the episodes (and the haunting soundtrack is magnificent too). The South African Chef, with his Michelin star restaurant in Nice, has a real affinity and love for this little village which he calls his 'happy food place'.

Our happy food place, buffalo mozzarella caprese,
borage and ricotta ravioli with butter and sage,
panne cotta.

So Fred and I are based in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and instead of lazying on a Med beach today, or doing what the French do on Sundays, we headed off into the Ligurian hills to find our own happy food place in Apricale. 

And we did, in fact we plan to return a few times and have one of Jan's favourite places booked for Wednesday, Apricus.

Its the simplicity of excellent fresh ingredients treated well that makes for happy food, nothing superfluous and everything paired with ease.  

The village is on the list of the most beautiful villages in Italy. I can certainly appreciate why, the tiny alleyways, the arched passageways, the ancient houses and the cobbled staircases give Apricale a unique charm.

Charming Apricale, Western Liguria, Italy.