Number 57: Gifting my hair to CANSA

One of my daily practices is to be lighter in the world, I look with intent at my spaces and everything in my places.

I declutter, I repurpose, I gift, I regift, I pass it on, I donate, I arrange, I trash, I organise, I use, I make, I fix, I share, I consume, I provision with a light hand, I purchase when replacing...

Number 57:

Gifting my hair to CANSA 

The practice is creative and highly rewarding. The cumulative effect of many years of this practice has been remarkable. Sometimes the actions I take are very small, like passing on hangers but sometimes, like today, the actions are far more meaningful to me.

Today I took out a small plastic bag from my trunk. My hair. Three long plaits, cut when I was 13 years old. Looking at my photos, these thick brown plaits feature in all my school photos. Mom made a special moment of the trip to the hairdresser, took photos and then kept the hair for me. Now, 5 decades later I am looking at my hair, remembering and know that it is time to let my couple of meters of hair go and to keep just the memories that are wrapped up in the plastic bag.

So to honor my mother, who died of cancer 25 years ago, I am taking my hair to CANSA's Head Office in Befordview. They accept donations and have wigs made which are given to cancer survivors who need it most.

A photo taken by my Mom the day I went to the hairdresser, age 13 and my couple of meters of hair.

Number 6, Part 5: Seeing my city through its Art Galleries: Art Strip on Jan Smuts

Time to get exploring, the hint of spring is the Johannesburg air, bringing hayfever but also blossoms and warmer weather. So Martie and I headed off to the Goodman Gallery, the heart of an exciting art precinct colloquially called Art Strip on Jan Smuts.

Number 6, Part 5: 

Seeing my city through its Art Galleries: Art Strip on Jan Smuts

A excerpt from a David Goldblatt quote at the 'On Common Ground' exhibition at the Goodman so resonated with us:

"Johannesburg is seldom a beautiful city, it has its rare moments. I can't honestly say that I love it. However I miss it when I am away and when I am in it I rejoice."

We shared one of these rare moments exploring this vibrant contemporary art scene. Our ambling took us to the longstanding Goodman Gallery and Kim Sacks Gallery, to Lizamore & Ass but also into the newer, exciting urban space called Art One Sixty where we popped into Gallery 2 and David Krut Projects. 

The precinct is a unique mix of established and emerging artists, co-operation and competition with diverse artistic styles and genres. 

We were heartbroken by the Goldblatt and Magubane photographs, charmed by the Clementina van Der Walt's delicate pottery and interested in Mongezi's approach to art through his love of music. 

The foodie scene is part of the eclectic mix along this block of Jan Smuts. Our choice was the hip Asian-inspired Saigon Suzi. I rejoiced.

A stimulating visit to Art Strip on Jan Smuts.

Number 56: Planning a Twitch at the St. Lucia Estuary, northern KwaZulu-Natal

A churny tummy is a good sign that planning has started on a twitch, which bears no resemblance to birding, mostly because of the 'spend large amounts of money and travel long distances' as per the quote below.
But also because of the likelihood of failure.

Number 56:

Planning a Twitch at the St. Lucia Estuary, northern KwaZulu-Natal.

I am not a dedicated twitcher and can count on one hand the number of trips I have made to pursue a rarity. A penguin in 2009 comes to mind, where I booked a ticket, flew to Cape Town from Johannesburg, drove a couple of hundred kilometers to see a bedraggled bird on a beach; another was a one day 1500 km roundtrip from Johannesburg to Pongola to see the Golden Pipit; another the trip with Doreen to Phinda Game Reserve last year to find the Malagasy Pond Heron.

So, how can I not do a twitch this year for my 100 Different Things.

Fred and I dipped on our first attempt at finding the Sooty Tern at St Lucia quite some years ago and it has been showing itself again. The SA Rare Bird Report on the 23rd July mentioned that the bird had been seen at the estuary, so here goes, attempt number 2. The first attempt was a hot, humid New Year and now a mid-winter attempt.

Twitching process:

1. Discuss with Fred, he says no.
2. Let is rest for a little while.
3. Fred says maybe.
4. Call Themba of Themba Birding in St. Lucia and see if he is free.
5. He is indeed.
6. Mention to Fred again, he is warming to the idea.
7. Logistical planning starts, I am in Amanzimtoti, some 265km from St. Lucia, so easy enough for me and I have the car.
8. Fred however is in Cape Town, flying back to Johannesburg. So I need to convince him to fly to Durban, fetch him and then drive up to St. Lucia. This could be a hard sell, but this is the nature of twitching, also the camera equipments, binocs and bird books are in Johannesburg and we need them.
9. We will need to overnight in St Lucia as we are planning two attempts for the Tern, late afternoon and early morning.
10. Look at Airbnb options but first need to look at Fred's logistics.
11. Just had an email from Fred, he has bought a ticket, so the twitch is on.
12. Sent a message to Themba.
13. Booked a little cottage in St Lucia for the Friday overnight on Airbnb.
14. Morning of the twitch has arrived, can feel the fluttering of nervous energy.
15. Uneventful drive up the North Coast of KZN.
16. We are on track for the 2pm hook-up with Themba and arrange to pick him up at the Dukuduku Gate just before the bridge into St. Lucia.
17. At Ingwe Beach we park and sort out the cameras, binocs and pull on walking shoes and start to walk along the Estuary Beach making for the mudflats behind the sand dunes.
18. As we approach the flats, the skies are dark and moody but we see flocks of birds, Caspian Terns, small waders, Avocets and Stilts, pelicans, Egyptian Geese and gulls.
19. Themba calls excitedly, pair of Sooty Terns!
20. So thrilled, I have a Sooty Tern in sight. The twitch has been a success.
21. I quietly sit on the sand bank and watch the birds, as Fred creeps closer to get some photos.
22. Thema mutters to me that Fred should be a bit more careful as there are crocodiles in the estuary. Just then Fred hustles back and sinks knee deep into the mud, fortunately he is agile enough to not get his rig wet.
23. Eventually the Sooty's get tried of being mobbed by the gulls and they head off to sea. We also head back to drop Themba off in town and check into our cottage.
24. Glass of wine to celebrate and seafood dinner at the Ski Club, dorado and yellowtail fresh from the Indian Ocean. Fred can now watch the rugby tomorrow as no attempt 2 needed.
25. Content.

Sooty Terns, St Lucia mudflats.

Sooty Tern been harassed.

Quote from Trevor Hardaker, on zestforbirds.co.za:

Twitcher: A birder in all the good sense of the term during normal times, but responds with frenzied activity to news of rarities in his region, and will spend large amounts of money and travel long distances at short notice in order to see a rarity or new bird. Consequently is the subject of scorn from certain birdwatchers who find this eagerness to see new birds distasteful. Is often accused (and sometimes guilty) of contravening the Code of Ethics in his desire to see a new bird. Due to his extra focus on rare species, it is the twitcher who very often discovers new or rare species in the region.

Number 55: Virtual holidaying in France and Le Tour

Le Tour, or Le Tour de France, is an annual tradition here in the Kersten household. Twenty-one cycle stages during the coldest time of our year but during the glorious northern hemisphere July summertime, and how I love to watch the French scenery which is an integral part of the broadcast. The villages, the churches and cathedrals, the chateaux and abbeys, mountains, rivers and coastlines, vast fields of ripening crops, golden fields of sunflowers, it's my annual virtual holiday in France.

A project, afternoon sun and TV coverage of Le Tour de France.

Number 55:

Virtual holidaying in France and Le Tour

Le Tour fascination started after we lived in France for a couple of years in the mid-eighties. As the decade passed, I would come home from work in the July dark and cold feeling excited to watch the daily 2 hour highlights program. I can clearly remember so wanting to be able to be on the couch, listening to Phil Liggett, the legendary English professional cycling commentator, watching the live broadcast.

And now I do just that, I watch the live coverage and I love it.

Fred, Martie and I in Annecy, France in the mid-eighties.

We now keep our calendar free in July - as best we can; and we make a date to watch the cycling. Our favorite place to be is at the Loft, the milder Amanzimtoti weather is lovely and of course walking on the beach is much nicer than pounding the Norwood streets.

The July rhythm is special, early morning walking, provisioning for the day, cooking, for me finding a project and for Fred, tackling home maintenance. This year I am finishing an interesting brick jacket for James, a knitting project designed by Horst Schulz, it's tricky, needs patience and just perfect for Le Tour. Fred is tackling blistering walls, scraping and painting and all sorts of other chores that need to happen here at the Loft.

Yesterday Le Tour started in Annecy in the French Alps and we were treated to magnificent helicopter views of the town, the pristine lake and the Alps, especially of snow-capped Mont Blanc.

So I went and dug out some of our old photos of our time in Annecy. 

It was 1986, we were living in Marly le Roi, and Martie came to visit us with Jessica, who is the same age as Barry. Such special memories of children and friendship and that is what Le Tour does, it makes me remember and makes me want to create more memories in France.

Number 54: Wonder of Rock Art: Lascaux Cave, Johannesburg

Understanding the complexity of the
Lascaux cave paintings and engravings

July two years ago, Fred and I were driving through Montignac, France, thinking we might visit the prehistoric Lascaux Caves of Dordogne, en route to seeing my cousins in Aquitaine.
I had not done any pre-planning and the visit did not happen. Summer queues, limited English tour times, so we pottered around the village and drove past the impressive Lascaux II complex, a replica of the caves built in 1983, as Lascaux has been closed to the public since the mid sixties.

Number 54: 

Wonder of Rock Art: Lascaux Cave, Johannesburg

I did feel dejected missing the Lascaux experience. One of the many first year courses I did at Wits University in the 1970's was 'History of Art 1', which started with prehistoric art and specifically with the paintings of Lascaux. I can still recall the slides our lecturer used and I was enthralled by the vivid images from the Hall of Bulls, specifically the Great Black Bull.

So Martie, Katie and I headed off early this morning to the fascinating interactive exhibition at Sci-Bono to learn about Lascaux, a collaboration with the French Embassy.

We were completely taken in by the discovery and story of the caves. The finely crafted replicas and exhibits certainly helped recreate the magnificence of this 20000 year old cave art! Wow, is all I could say...

A sewing needle used by Cro Magnon man/woman, not changed in design or shape!

Quote: Norbert Aujoulat (1946-2011) who spent 25 years recording the images and symbols at Lascaux. 

"Lascaux gets its suggestive power from the permanent presence of the image: wherever you are, an animal is looking at you, questioning you. Throughout the cave's omnipresent wild oxen, horses, deer, bison and ibexes, we see the dominating imprint of man."

Number 53: Closing out the Owls on my Southern African Bird List

A magnificent African Grass Owl.

African Grass Owl, the one owl still missing on my local bird list, the last of the 12 owls found in Southern Africa that I needed to see.

Number 53:

Closing out the Owls on my Southern African Bird List.

Tyto capensis, and I have now seen all our owls!

What a joy and challenge it has been chasing our owls: from Nxabega in the Okavango for Pel's Fishing Owl, to Grahamstown (many times over) for the Cape Eagle Owl, to the Kalahari Gemsbok in 1997 for the Whitefaced Owl, the Barred Owl also in Botswana at Moremi 3rd Bridge, a Giant Eagle Owl near Satara in the Kruger National Park in 1998 and so on.

Here I am, 25 years since I started birding, in a field north of Johannesburg for an African Grass Owl, with Fred and Martie, being guided by Etienne Marais, our fabulous local bird man.

It is a very cold June winter morning and the huge moon seemed to be guiding us in the dark to our meeting point.

With the sun rising, we were ready to scan the patches of blade grass, Etienne explaining that the habitat was perfect for grass owls and in no time at all, there it was, a Grass Owl!

What a completely wonderful moment. It is a magnificent bird with its enormous pale facial disk, liquid dark brown eyes, its dangly long legs protruding behind the tail and even though it is a medium sized owl, it looked huge as it dropped down into the tall, thick, rank grass.

Blade grass in the early morning light. Perfect habitat.

Number 6, Part 4: Seeing my city through its Art Galleries: Maboneng District

Uncontainable: Good way to describe the Maboneng.

We tried galleries yesterday, Spaza Art in Troyeville which looked neglected, rundown and definitely closed and MOAD, a cavernous empty space...

But, as things happened we had a surprise, unplanned outing to Maboneng instead, a space of urban renewal to the east of the Johannesburg CBD.

Number 6:

Seeing my city through its Art Galleries.

Trendy, artistic, urban chic, cosmopolitan, collaborative, entrpreneurial, creative; a fine example of mixed land-use inner city renaissance, which buzzes on a weekend but is laidback and interesting to explore during the week.

The dilapidated 19th century buildings sit comfortably alongside container apartments and coffee shops. Martie and I ambled around the city blocks; stopping for coffee; nosing into buildings and hidden gardens; noticing old shoes decorating an inner courtyard; admiring a little bit of heritage on display Sir Herbert Baker's dining room suite; buying bread that Washington had just baked; seeing the street installation art by Kim Lieberman called 'Human Interaction'; buying some shweshwe slippers for little man; eating an Ethiopian vegetarian sharing platter served on injera, the slightly sour rice flatbread; doing a walkabout of the container apartments with a very enthusiastic building manager called Kelvin; enjoying lofty views from The Living Room; chatting to a young Maltese woman taking in precinct; appreciating the social work being done by #iwasshotinjoburg...

Another intriguing peep into my city.

Glimpses of Maboneng on a clear winter morning in Johannesburg.

Number 52: Joining the world of Instagram

When Inel visited for the wedding in March she got me excited about using Instagram and I love how she has been showcasing her art.

Number 52:

Joining the world of Instagram.

I got a roaring fire going in the kitchen, brought the laptop through and started to navigate through yet another social media platform and of course, the #! With all the wonderful photos we have, I am excited about this new creative process, just learnt how to airdrop, and choose this photo to get started this morning. 

#closeups#windowsanddoors#fredkerstenphotographer

Number 51: Bellevue Alm, the Mother of Cottages

Ancient low slung wooden beams and logs, hand worn painted furniture and carvings, an enormous stone fireplace, and a whole suckling pig roasting in an outdoor brick oven set into the mountain. We have arrived at the 600 year old Bellevue Alm, a cottage well known across the Alps in Europe and affectionately called the 'Mother of Cottages'.

Number 51:

Bellevue Alm, the Mother of Cottages.

The cottage sits high on the mountain above Bad Gastein and commands spectacular views. But the real action was around the enormous outdoor oven, the chef called us out, the musicians danced across the patio and with style the Bellevue Alm's crew lifted out the whole suckling pig. 

Such theatre and we loved it all!

A ceremony for the roasting suckling pig, musicians lead the way, the clay is removed the metal lids opened
and a perfectly whole roasted pig is revealed.

An evening at Bellevue Alms. Delicious pork with bread dumplings, which, if truth be told, were my favorites.
The musicians had us smiling and foot thumping all evening.

Candles ready and the group set off down the mountain after the feast.

What a crazy and memorable evening out and a good way to close out our 5 weeks of 'Spring in Europe'.

Number 50: Exploring the food of Austria

Another new country for our world list, Austria. We are now up to fifty countries visited.
And as always a food adventure awaits.
It's been a rainy day, so instead of riding the cable car into the mountains, we are exploring new foods and going to a folk evening later tonight.
I felt a foodie blog would be perfect for my 'Hundred Different Things' this year, half way mark.

Number 50:

Exploring the food of Austria

"Rindsuppe mid Gebackenen Leberknodel"

A hearty beef broth with a liver dumpling, served with chopped chives.

Great for a rainy late lunch, the liver dumpling not necessarily my favorite choice though.

"Glasierte Kartoffel-Powidl taschen mit Joghurt Zitronensauce"

Dumplings as a desert! Potato dumplings filled with a smooth thick plum jam and served with zesty citrus yoghurt, berry sauce and cream. They were delicious indeed.

"Rindergulash mit Nockerl (Spätzle)"

As our waitress in one of the restaurants we frequented in Bad Gastein said, 'we Austrians also love Goulash' and they sure cook it well, the meat was delicious and tender.
But the dish was about trying the Nockerl, little irregularly shaped dough balls, more dissolve in the mouth than pasta and lighter than gnocchi, they held the sauce well.

"Currywurst" 

A steamed pork sausage served with a curry ketchup. A surprise on the menu, tasty but I found the texture too smooth.

"Tiroler Groslt"
Fred's favorite! A hearty bacon, onion and potato fry-up served in a skillet with a soft fried egg, parsley and thyme. The chef also added some seasonal vegetables.

 "Apfelstrudel"
The famous Austrian dessert, a sweet delight of paper thin pastry sheets and delicious apples. Our staple - even in the Dolomites. We also tried an apple cake, the light as air cake with a layer of apple, it was nice with coffee while we watched the Gastein Waterfall thunder down the gorge.






"Weiner Schnitzel"
A standard dish on all the menus and probably the most well known Austrian dish too. We popped down to Bad Hofgastein to search out a good spot to try schnitzel, as this rainy day was slowing us down. And what a treat, pork schnitzel with parsley butter potatoes and a cranberry jam. Ideal for this grey day.

"Kasekrainer & Hautbrot"

A sausage filled with cheese that oozes onto the delicious sourdough rye bread, a useful evening snack here in our apartment in Bad Gastein.

"Knodel"

My favourite! Spinach and cheese dumplings done four different ways with a butter sauce.

And the perfectly presented strong cappuccino. 

On a silver platter, with a glass of water, hot milk on the side, a head of foam and a little chocolate on the side.

Eating well in the Gastein Valley.

Number 49: Healing Waters, Austria's Gastein Valley, an Alpine beauty.

Finding the thermal waters on our early morning walking. Glorious!

Fred and I are completely charmed by Bad Gastein, a picturesque spa village in the Gastein Valley in the heart of the Austrian Alps. 

Sheep wander through the village with their bells tinkling; music wafts up to our third floor apartment, snow peaks float high above our balcony, a world apart.

Number 49:

Healing Waters, Austria's Gastein Valley, an Alpine beauty.

We are surrounded by Belle Epoque hotels and villas built into the impossibly steeply forested slopes above the raging waterfalls along the Gastein River.

Bad Gastein from the upper bridge.

Our morning walking along the Gastein River.

Waterfalls in Bad Gastein 

It has been all about water, hot thermal springs known since the Roman times and enriched with minerals and radon.

We have been finding thermal hot streams along our walks; drinking copious amounts of the icy cold mountain water from the interesting sculpture pieces in each of the towns in the valley; swimming daily; in and out of whirlpools with jets soothing post walk weary bodies; stream rooms, saunas have been nudist so have not had the courage to go into them...

And we spent an early evening session last night at the local thermal baths, called Felsentherme Gastein, floating in the 32 degree water, in an outdoor pool, with steam rising in the cool air, and the snow capped mountain in the background. 

The water felt buoyant, light on the skin and very relaxing indeed. 

And healing? not sure I was still weary after the 18km morning walking, but maybe.....

Healing water is all its wonderful forms. Our daily swimming is special here in Bad Gastein.

Number 48: Alpine Farm Breakfast at Amoseralm

There is nothing different about Fred and I walking to breakfast, it is what we love to do in Johannesburg and Cape Town. What made this morning different was climbing 1000ft over 2.5km up a steep footpath to Amoseralm for breakfast, an historical Austrian Alpine family farm cottage.

Amoseralm, an Alpine Farm Cottage at 1200m, our breakfast destination.

Number 48:

Alpine Farm Breakfast at Amoseralm.

Freshly baked Austrian rye sourdough bread, cheese that smells of the farm, air-dried ham, a skillet of scrambled eggs, mountain water, mugs of coffee, homemade preserves, farm butter and a bowl of bircher muesli with berry compote, all placed out on our rough-hewn wooden table!

Sunshine, high altitude meadows with spring flowers, high snow peaks, and around us cows, chickens, rabbits, pigs, a young waitress in an Austrian traditional dress - and a woodpile with a window.

Alpine Breakfast, needed the 3km walk down to the valley floor.

From my friend Sharon:
"Above all, do not lose your desire to walk. Everyday, I walk myself into a state of well-being & walk away from every illness. I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it. But by sitting still, & the more one sits still, the closer one comes to feeling ill. Thus if one just keeps on walking, everything will be all right." Soren Kirkegaard

Number 47: An afternoon of music in Bad Gastein, Austria

Our afternoon of music.

The summer season has kicked off here in the mountain town of Bad Gastein with the arrival of the Johann Strauss Orchestra from Salzburg.

Number 47:

An afternoon of music in Bad Gastein, Austria

The 82 year old director and composer Prof Baldur Paub presented the program - although in German, which helped create the atmosphere in the beautiful Belle Epoque Wiener Salon of the Grand Hotel de l'Europe with its perfect acoustics for the music.

It was altogether charming, the 10 piece orchestra youthful and obviously happy to here in Bad Gastein.

I had to pinch myself that I am in Austria, a meeting place for music lovers from all over the world, listening to popular classics and melodies. 

Whips being lashed to music.
Rhythmic and skillful.

And a post script: 

The opening of the Folk Evening with
3 Alpine Horn players.

Last night we went into Bad Hofgastein and joined in a Folk Evening in the Kursaal.
An evening of singing, dancing, music and lederhosen-wearing men standing on tables around us, lashing whips!
So intrigued by the size of the huge 'alpenhorns' carved from the core of the pine trees here in the Austrian Alps.