Rocher et Chapelle St-Michel d'Aiguille: Le Puy-en-Velay

Chapelle Saint-Michel floats on its volcano plug above Le Puy

It was about 7 years ago on another French road trip that we drove through Puy and I remember catching a glimpse of a remarkable church floating on the top of a volcanic plug. 

We have come back. We climbed the 268 steps carved into the volcanic rock to visit the chapel whose story goes back to 969. Through the eons there have been additions to the original chapel including the rampart walk and yet it retains its ancient and soulful heart.

The inside is just so beautiful, deeply carved into its rock base the chapel is decorated with faded frescoes that still move us as tourists or as pilgrims, just as they would have done for the thousand years of pilgrim souls who have passed here along their individual caminos. A special reflective moment for us.

The beautiful frescoes of the St Michael Chapel

Finding Truffade: Le Puy-en-Velay

Famous truffade indeed

There is the classic French Gratin Dauphinois which a served as a side dish. It is undoubtedly a treat and a delicious way to serve potatoes.  But when the Australian Masterchef judges say 'take it to the next level' that is when you get close to truffade.

We are in Le Puy-en-Velay ambling around the old village, it's a cold evening and I can sense Fred's nerves about the South Africa vs England RWC semi-final that is looming large. By a small stroke of magic we select a restaurant that is only servicing one hot dish and some salads, and it was the hot dish I had been looking out for, truffade.

A Haute-Loire regional speciality of thinly sliced potatoes smothered in melted Tome fraiche and a regional cheese called Cantal, oven baked in a metal dish with a side of jambon cru and dressed salad leaves. Having spent the day outdoors exploring the Puy pilgrim sites with the wind biting and not having enough layers with me to feel snug, this dish was comfort food heaven and deservedly famous. 

I also found my 'green gold' of the Haute-Loire at the morning market, the also famous Puy lentils which are the only lentils that have their own appellation. 
 

Sidebar: We are in a part of France where rugby holds neither interest nor fascination. We looked at a few sports bars for Fred to enjoy the semi-final and none of them appealed. So we are watching the game on the local TF 1 channel in our apartment, not much rugby atmosphere and a frustrating game. We sneaked into the final.

A country day: Au Coindumont, St-Didier-en-Velay

 

The daily boulangerie rendezvous....

I am sitting at the fire that Fred has got going, on a chair with it's faded quilt, it's drizzling and I am content. 

Gite au coindumont details

I am reflecting on our first day at our gite. 

It started with an hour of uncontrollable giggling at 4am, pitch black room, another new bed, strange noises from the water pipes and quite frankly wondering what we were doing in this remote spot rattling around in a 3 storey gite built for family times - we are missing family as Doreen was not able to resolve the frustrating visa process. 

I am getting used to pivoting, so rethinking our days was part of today too.

After a social meeting with Catherine our host we went into the village -an ordinary village- to visit the weekly 'Marche'.

Our first port of call was a  boulangerie and meeting with the villagers who were bemused with our foreignness.

Coffee at the local bar and I popped back to the boulangerie as the bar is happy that you bring food in with you. 

The market was unpretentious, good honest fresh produce and we treated ourselves to fresh filleted fish which Fred expertly fried for lunch. We did find the mattress salesman a rather odd addition to the market.

We made plans after lunch for the coming weekend, where to watch the RWC semi-finals; fitting in my must-do visit to Le Puy to both eat a green lentil dish and to buy some of those lentils with their own appellation; getting to another iconic Tour de France climb, the Puy de Dome; that all took some thinking!

Our afternoon passeggiata was a pleasure, we stepped out of the gite, no car needed, and walked the paths around the fields, the forrest, along the river and past the tiny hamlets and farm houses.

I have made dinner, we have perfect little apple and pear tarts for dessert and this has been my day in the country. 

Driving into Autumn: Haute-Loire

 

Driving into autumn

Saint-Didier_en_Velay

We have continued on our road trip moving further north and west. There is something quite invigorating about setting out on the backroads here in France and just taking in the surprises of what is revealed along the way.

 

Leaving Sisteron this morning and arriving at our 'gite,' deep in the countryside of the Haute-Loire, took us on quite some adventure. 

Precipitous mountain passes, narrow roads and hairpin bends of the Cols, and glorious vistas as each range of mountains were crested. 

Remote villages along the way, few cars and people and the rich pastoral landscapes that make France so special.

Driving into the unknown and wild side.

What struck me the most was experiencing the change in the seasons from the fiercely hot late summer in the south-eastern most corner on the Mediterranean Sea to the cooler, almost cold weather of autumn here in the Haute-Loire. 

We have literally been driving into autumn, the trees have turned all the shades of yellow, orange and red and the leaves are falling. 

The days are shorter, the light quality is changing and we are also feeling the changes, eating indoors, needing hot food, wearing a jersey, looking to sneak into bed a little earlier to keep warm, even considering get a fire going in our gite...

All about Provencal fragrances: Fragonard and L'Occitane

 

Another must do for me when I am in Provence is fragrance for Shawni and for me. 

It's her birthday soon so what better than a visit to Fragonard in the village of Eze on the Cote d'Azur to choose a new parfum for her and their new Narcisse range for me.

And today was our 'pilgrimage' to the L'Occitane headquarters and factory in Manosque not far from us here in Sisteron (no coincidence either!). 

Such a treat to fill my basket with their wonderful products. I no longer shop for much but I can certainly shop for body and face products with gay abandon.

Walking the dragon spine: La Citadelle, Sisteron

Upper ramparts of the Citadel of Sisteron

Glorously perched between heaven and rock, with the orange and red Sisteron flags flying in the ever-present wind, this walkway was exhilarating. 

The rock around which the citadel is shaped has a forever history as a fortified place, its been badly treated in every era but is now lovingly restored, cared for and valued by its town. 

It was a privilege to walk and enjoy the space.

Impressive bastion walls

Rocher de la Baume: Sisteron

Rocher de la Baume, Sisteron

We have started our slow return road trip north and leaving the light, warmth and sparkle of the Med yesterday felt harder when we arrived to the cooler windy weather here in Sisteron and had to resettle into a new space and find our feet again. 

The drive through the Alps-de-Haute-Provence had been a treat with it's a pared back colour palate of muted dry greens and greys, the lavender fields have been harvested and are resting. 

This part of France has a remarkable geological history and too complicated to even begin to remember, so I just look in awe. No wonder this is a UNESCO Geoparc. 

I had decided on Sisteron as a stop-over because of its natural beauty and remarkable 4000 years of history.

As we walked into town from our accommodation the Baume Rock slowly came into view, with the Durance River at its base and the formation of the gorge with the Citadel Rock on the opposite bank. 

The sun came out and we felt lighter, invigorated and ready for whatever the day held for us. 

The power of nature worked its magic.

 

The gorge of Sisteron, historical gateway into Provence.

Ile flottante revisited: Sisteron

A postcard home dated 9/5/87.
A farm-stay in Longueville with the Leroy family.
Their kindness and their hospitality has stayed with me for over 35 years.

It's still amazing and still too delicious

Pillowy airy poached French meringues floating on a bed of velvety ice-cold creme anglaise drizzled with a trickle of caramel and a few toasted almonds. The magic of a French dessert called floating islands or Iles Flottantes. 

And for me, this dessert takes me straight back to one of my favourite memories of living here in France in the mid 80's. 

I have only had this dessert once before and it was in Normandy when our farm-stay host, Mme Leroy, invited our little family to stay on and join them for Sunday lunch. 

I write home to my mother about our weekend experiences on the farm and how French life revolves around mealtimes and how exciting it was for us to witness their lives. 

In my letter below I give the details of that Sunday lunch and its 'amazing' dessert. And here I am, in the town of Sisteron, completely delighted to have finished our Sunday lunch with this dessert that comes with layers of feelings and meaning.

A letter to my Mom in the mid 80's when we lived in Paris, all about a French Sunday lunch.

The "Pearl of France" revisited: Menton

'Les Rampes de Saint Michel',  the staircase to the Basilica in Menton

My first outing to Menton felt as though I was shucking oysters and not finding the pearl in this so called "Pearl of France". I was weary, it was hot, we kept walking around in circles to find the Basilica, which we had already found and it was closed, then accidentally walked the famous 'les rampes', at that point I realised I was jaded by it all.

I was also so struck that my dear friend Michelle in the US, who completely loves Menton, was going to be in this place in a few weeks time and that we were missing each other. I was almost grumpy with the universe for these bizarre circumstances and poor timing. 

I did the next best thing, asked her to plan my return visit with all her favourites and what makes her love Menton. 

So from her must do's about food and everyday living:

• I bought the freshest Italian Taggiasca hand pressed virgin olive oil directly from the farmer at the Ventimiglia Mercato Coperto ...
• I bought his last season lemons from his tree, and I noticed how I felt about these gnarly looking lemons...
• In Menton I chased down her favourite honey boutique and bought the 'Miel & Citron' as this is the capital of lemon growers...
• Then down the alley to Maison Herbin for Lemon Marmalade and Fred loved the tart lemonade on sale too...
• Then the Les Halles Market for fresh produce and an assortment of deli items for our antipasto this evening...
• Last night we caught the train to Menton and choose our pizza spot. Another foodie treat and better than our pizza choice in Ventimiglia today...
• And of course gelato, a dark delicious frutti di bosco...

Thanks Mich for introducing me to your French 'pearl', I get it now and I noticed the special umbrella spot...I miss you.

A rugby segue: Cemetery of the Old Château, Menton

Fred flying the flag at the grave of William Webb Ellis

Our first visit to the Cimetiere du Vieux Chateau was for the great views of old town Menton and the port. We meandered all the way up through the historic quarter to this hilltop cemetery, it was hot and humid and we paid scant attention to the graves as we took in the views.

It's only when we got back to our apartment and we were doing some reading up on Menton that we realised the cemetery is something of a pilgrimage site for rugby fans! 

They come to pay their respects at the tomb of William Webb Ellis, legendary inventor of the sport. 

Well, here we are back in Menton, on the Cote d'Azur, and we are visiting a cemetery!

There were some tense moments, once again a hot, humid morning, and no sign of this specific grave. 

An Australian couple noticed our quest and got intrigued and got involved. Talk about a scavenger hunt and guess who won - the Australians, they found the lower level which we had missed and after that it was simple to find the gravesite. 

The grave is festooned with all sorts of rugby memorabilia and Fred was so chuffed to be flying his South African flag, he was also quietly asking for divine intervention for this weekends' game - South Africa vs France in the quarter-finals.

A morning of walking: Promenade le Corbusier, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

The Promenade le Corbusier.

We choose to walk the Promenade le Corbusier this morning from our apartment, around Cap Martin, to the Plage de Carnoles and back, a good 10 km.

It's  a coastal path with sublime views of the rocky coastline, the sea which sparkled, the surrounding mountains and with vistas across to Monaco and to Menton as we traversed the promenade. 

It felt so good to be close to the sea and to be away from the busyness of the Cote d'Azur. 

We are now just waiting for the scorching mid afternoon heat to abate and then we plan to have our swim in the Med.

Look at this sea!

Sidebar: I do have to chuckle at the reality check of going for a swim versus the beautiful sea photos. The rocks are slippery, the beach is a pebble beach and makes it so hard to get in and out, never mind the kilometre walk down and up the hill to get to the sea.

Nothing elegant about the swim at all...took myself off to the pool afterwards which I much prefer.

We felt revived after a shower and a train ride into Menton for an evening pizza. We lucked on a good choice of restaurant not too far from the 'SNCF Gare' and ate well. 

A return visit: Apricus Osteria and Bar, Apricale

The approach to Apricale, breathtaking even on the second viewing

There is a spaciousness about having a week in one place and that has always been the pleasure of our timeshare swops around the world. 

Ambling through the village

Here on the Cote d'Azur we are nestled between Nice and Menton with Italy on our doorstep. 

We have appreciated the choices of how to put our days together and yesterday we got to go back to Apricale, the hilltop Ligurian village, for another round of delicious food and another amble through the ancient old streets. 

It's a rare treat to return to an isolated destination like Apricale and I am so mindful that these set of circumstances that find us here, are unlikely to happen again.

And what a difference to Sunday. 

The crowds had dissipated, there were no rally drivers revving up the narrow steep streets, we got to breathe in the milder more humid air and to just take in so much more of the detail of the thousand years of history in this village. 

We even found the ancient communal bread ovens, the villagers would prepare their dough and come to the 'forno' for the baking, it was used until the 1940's when the last baker stopped his fine trade.

Apricus details.

Once again we ate with joy, my burrata and fresh peaches were a perfect late summer starter and equally Fred's carpaccio was delicious. We just happily sat back with the views of Apricale and had our courses.

We also took the opportunity to natter to the maitre d about their relationship with Chef Jan and he shared lots of stories and news which was entertaining indeed and we shared a good laugh.

Sidebar: we have a late afternoon swim here at Le Golfe Bleu which is such a treat after a day out and of course after all the delicious food. We have been meeting people too at the pool. So yesterday we had a note taped to our door, an invitation for a sundowner. The American couple on our floor have owned a unit here for 25 years and it's setting is one of the best in the complex. It sure was lovely to sit back and take in the sunset, watch all the lights come on in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin with conversation rolling from one topic to another. 

A train ride: colourful Nice

Nice Port from the Colline du Chateau

What a treat to take the train into Nice today, the hassle free way to navigate this beautiful Cote d'Azur and to take in the scenery without watching the navigation aid or the traffic!

There  is something magical about the colours of Nice, the warm biscuit and yellow tones, the orange hues, the acid greens and all the way to hot pink. 

If we had to use this palette back home we would 'dial it back', it's the soft Mediterranean light that all makes it work.

It's a visual delight.

Shawni and Craig had spent some time in Old Nice during their recent stay. It was our turn today, we ambled around, and of course stopped for a Salade Nicoise, as one has to and needs too. 

Even with the temperatures hovering near the 30's we followed the paths up to the viewing points on the Colline du Chateau, for these remarkable perspectives of this iconic city on the Mediterranean.

Old Nice for lunch

Promenade des Anglais from the Colline du Chateau