Number 32: Drinking the third best water in the World and curious Sicilian villages

I so enjoy not knowing where this blog is going to take me this year, but today made me smile when Fred and I arrived at the Saracen Fountain in Geraci Siculo, and we read that an American Laboratory has declared the water to be the third best in the world - makes me want to find number 1 and 2, but I am not going down that rabbit hole!

Number 32:

Drinking the third best water in the World and curious Sicilian villages.

One of the enduring pleasures of walking is water and Fred carries many litres for us, so it was such a treat to stop at the Saracen fountain, to drink deeply from the fast flowing, ice-cold water and to fill all our bottles for tomorrow's hiking. The fountain is at the base of Geraci Siculo, our destination on day 2 of our hiking.

Saracen Fountain, Geraci Siculo

Geraci Siculo, in the distance, seen from our walk, what looks like rock
is the town.

The towns in this central mountainous area of Sicily cling to mountain tops, the houses spilling down the steep slopes and they have histories dating back to prehistoric times, Greeks settled here in 550 BC, then Romans, then Saracens, then Arabs, then Normans and so on until the feudal era in the eighteen hundreds. 

And now their story is one of decline!

Our guide book quotes General George Patton in 1943, as having said that Gangi, one of these remarkable hill towns, was 'the most curious village that I have ever seen'. 

A favorite moment on the hike, been watched by Sicilian goats.

I rather agree, having stayed in Enna, hiked up into Gangi and now into Geraci Siculo to our Casa Albergo Maggio with its awesome views, these villages are curious indeed.

Number 31: Hiking among the wild flowers of central Sicily

This holiday, Spring in Europe, was centered around hiking in Sicily, doing the ATG Oxford 'Centre to Sea' walk over 7 days from Enna to Cefalu. And here we are, the four of us, Bruce and Cathy having arrived from Malta, ready to start, on a beautiful clear spring day.

Number 31:
Hiking among the wild flowers of Sicily

The flowers did not disappoint! They were a joy, fields of flowers dotted among the agricultural fields. 

We saw no people on the paths, except for a few farmers, what a privilege in the busy, chaotic world we all live in.

A perfect May day among the spring flowers in Sicily.

The 25 km challenged us but we loved it all. Roman cobbled ancient roads, farm tracks, dirt tracks, off road stream crossings, rocky tracks, concrete tracks, sometimes gentle and quite often very steep gradients, up and down. Cathy was fantastic, this being her first long day of hiking. 

At times we got lost in the books trying to figure out the route!

And we wake up today, ready to go again from our lovely rural accommodation -  an 18th C house called Villa Raino, where we were fed layers and layers of delicious Sicilian family food and litres of the house red wine. 

The scenery along our hike between Villadoro and Gangi.

Number 30: Our first Arancini from iconic Pasticceria Savia in Catania

Even with Rosella cooking for us, it is hard to believe that I have waited this long to try Arancini!

Number 30:

Our first Arancini from iconic Pasticceria Savia in Catania.

Arancini, are said to have originated in 10th C Sicily at a time when the island was under Arab rule, are stuffed rice balls, crumbed and deep fried.  

The morning plan was to breakfast at Pasticceria Savia, along Via Etnea and try our first arancini. No better way to start the morning and they are completely delicious! We tried the ragu and the aubergine and mozzarella. Landed...

Our first foodie joy in Sicily - Arancini from Pasticceria Savia.

Number 29: A very strange train experience, the boot of Italy to Messina, Sicily

The New York Times today featured a piece on travelling to Catania, and here we are at the station in Villa San Giovanni, the last stop before our ‘train crossing’ to Messina, Sicily, doing the same trip as he describes! 

I do not quite know what to expect, when Fred booked our train ride there was no mention on how we crossed this strategic bit of sea separating Sicily from the mainland.….

Number 29:

A very strange train experience, the boot of Italy to Messina, Sicily.

  

SO Frugal Traveler writes – “at the tip of the boot, the entire train was loaded – passengers and all - onto a large ship and ferried to Sicily. Once unloaded in Messina, we continued in the same train down Sicily’s coastline, past Taormina and into Catania Central”

Train ride across to Messina, Sicily

And so we did, boarded the train in Villa San Giovanni, sat as it was delayed, we were then shunted onto the ferry, customized for these trains! We then got off, looking across to Sicily for the first glimpse of the golden Madonna gleaming in the sun, a quick half hour, back to our seats on the train and made our way to Catania, and our first glimpses of Mount Etna.

All very strange, goodness knows what politics lies behind this process!

Number 28: A ferry across the Adriatic Sea, Split to Ancoma

I am reading Andrea Camilleri, the Sicilian author of the Montalbano crime novel series, to get into the mood for the next leg of our trip - Sicily.
The stories are fine, but I pay attention to the food writing, this man knows and loves his Sicilian cuisine. Anticipation and thanks Di for pointing me to this quirky set of books.

Number 28:

A ferry across the Adriatic Sea, Split to Ancona

A slow cruise across the Adriatic Sea.

I resisted the obvious, to take a quick flight across the Adriatic Sea. Instead it was a relaxed 10 hour ferry crossing with views of the Dalmation Islands and then a gentle sea and not much else. 

This was certainly our longest ferry crossing to date and we took an upsell on a sea view cabin, a nap, a read and dreaming of Sicilian food. I like indeed; and in keeping with doing things differently this year we are using trains over the next two days. Ancona - Bologna - Rome - Catania, Sicily.

Number 27: The Hunters Menu at Konoba 'Kokot'

Just when I thought we had 'done' it all on Hvar Island, we discovered the family owned konoba 'Kokot', set in an idyllic rural landscape in the tiny village of Dol. Their story is all about homegrown ingredients and traditional cuisine.

Number 27: 

The Hunters Menu at Konoba 'Kokot'

In the gentle light of the early evening sun, we parked our car and made our way up to the konoba and were immediately entranced at the setting and unique atmosphere. We were made welcome with a bowl of partially dried figs and the house grappa.

Our host talked us through the specials. The family make their own assortment of handmade goat's cheese - fresh, salted, in olive oil, with aromatics, all delicious. Vegetables from their gardens. But more exciting for me, they hunt for boar in the nearby woods and having not eaten wild boar before, in the spirit of my hundred different things for the year, number 27 was eating slow cooked boar with gnocchi made by our host's mother. The boar was rich, sweet and tender. Fred's boar patties, with home-grown fried potatoes and 'ajvar', a sweet, smoky, fruity condiment was outstanding too.

We also tried some of the boar salami, which we could not finish and Fred has made sandwiches for our ferry crossing later today. Yum!

The satisfaction of homegrown ingredients in a rural konoba on Hvar Island.

Recipe for Ajvar:

• 5-6 red bell peppers
• 1 medium eggplant
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1/2 cup chives roughly chopped
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp salt
• pinch sugar
• pinch red pepper flakes

Roast peppers and eggplant. Skin peppers. Pulse all ingredients in a blender. Enjoy with goats cheese and crusty bread. Spice it up with a jalapeño.

Number 26: Exploring the sights and flavors of Croatia with Collen and Sarah.

I emailed Collen about our 2 bedroomed apartment in Jelsa, Hvar Island and asked if he and Sarah wanted to join us. 

He said yes, how I loved that reply.

Number 26:

Exploring the sights and flavours of Croatia with Collen and Sarah.

A window into the world of Split and Hvar Island, Croatia, may 2018.

We:
Watched the sunrise from our balcony in Jelsa, Hvar Island.
Walked the old city of Split, following in the footsteps of Emperor Diocletian and the TV series Game of Thrones with our guide Vjeran Mlacic.
Navigated the steep flights of steps up the Split Bell Tower and the winding flight of stairs to the Marjan Peninsula, where we walked around the wooded peninsula.
Hopped on the Jadrolinija ferry from Split to Stari Grad.
Hired a Renault to explore Hvar Island, Fred and Collen laughed and joked with the entrepreneurial young Daniel.
Joined Sarah for Sunday Mass at the parish church of St Mary Magdalene in Svirce and quietly took in the strong clear voices of the choir echoing under the dome.
Had G&T sundowners on our balcony, the exotic Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin, a gift from Collen.
Listened to church bells.
People watched along the Riva.
Identified a surprising bird for my European list, a Turtle Dove and heard the Scops Owl calling all night.
Popped into a bakery each day to try different breads, all quite perfect.
Provisioned at markets.
Marveled at the UNESCO Stari Grad Plain, a cultural landscape unchanged since the 4^thC BC Greek colonisers, each square centimeter under crops, vines and olive groves and separated by dry stone walls. 
Appreciated the yellow broom in flower and the red of poppies standing out against the grey stones on our early morning walk on the plain.
Found the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, a cuckoo was calling, wandered around lost for a while before falling into Berti Tudor’s remarkable Konoba called Stori Komin to experience a Peka, the traditional island style of cooking under a bell surrounded by a wood fire.
Swam in the Adriatic, off a pebble beach called Dubovica, such a lovely secluded bay.
Treated ourselves to coffee and a cheese burek along our walks.
Strode out along the magnificent 5 km coastal road between Jelsa and Vrboska, watching the sea change colour and mood.
Bought traditional honey biscuits called, paprejnok, with a history going back to 1167, from a bakery in Stari Grad. Our biscuits were shaped as fish.
Drove the Pitve – Zavala tunnel; a rough, damp tunnel with poor visibility, and Fred was the first to swim in the clear, warm Adriatic Sea at Zavala.
Enjoyed an abundance of seafood; grilled sea bass, fish soup, octopus salad, prawns with chickpeas and seafood pasta.
Bought delicious olive oil, fig jam and tomato jam from Angelika at Murvica in Jelsa.
Bought 'flowers of salt' in Split, a premium Adriatic salt in a limestone container.
Ambled along the Route 116 to Sucuraj and took in the fabulous views across the Adriatic Sea to the mainland of Croatia or out to the further Dalmation islands beyond Hvar.
Had a peaceful leisurely Sunday lunch on a veranda floating above the marina and fishing harbor at Vrboska, a gem here on Hvar with its canal and stone bridges.
Drank the local beer, carafes of the local white wine and tried different varieties of prosek, a sweet desert wine.
Climbed the many steps of the 16^thC Fortress Fortica Spanjola for the exceptional views of Hvar Town, the ‘little French Riviera’ of the island.
Pottered around Stari Grad, the 'old town' which has been around for more than 2400 years, 'smashed' pizzas and enjoyed tea and cakes.

Number 25: An abandoned rural village, Konoba Stori Komin, meeting Berti Tudor and a culinary speciality, the Lamb Peka

The fascination of Malo Grablje

I had been alerted to the marvels of Peka, a Dalmatian culinary speciality by VJ our Split guide and specifically to Berti Tudor of Konoba Stori Komin, which is set in the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, en route to Hvar Town. 

Number 25:

An abandoned rural village, Konoba Stori Komin, meeting Berti Tudor and a culinary speciality, the Lamb Peka

OK, so context needed - a Konoba is a Dalmation eatery,  Stori Komin means "old hearth", Berti Tudor is owner chef and the old hearth is the heart of his family home in Malo Grablje, where he remembers being with his mother, father and grandfather around the hearth for warmth, for light and for the family dinner. 

The small rural village of Malo Grablje though, was abandoned in the 1950's, it's crumbling ruins are being taken over by nature and among his childhood memories and the ruin of his family home, Berti has created his Konoba! 

A reed thin, fast talking, hard drinking and smoking chef who fed us a magnificent feast and entertained us all afternoon.

Making our way to Konona Stori Komin, our Peka awaits us!

After hours of slow cooking our chef removed the peka dish from the coals, lifted the bell shaped lid, added sea salt and dried thyme from the mountains around the village, added more meat juices and our lamb peka was ready!

The four of us were in awe of the simplicity of the dish, the depth of flavour, the melt in the mouth lamb, the delicious potatoes, we ate with gusto, quaffed liters of Berti's house wine, dipped crusty bread into the juices and we were happy, very happy.

An afternoon of culinary magic with Berti, he and Collen shared bee-keeping stories too.

Shutters with attitude, Malo Grablje.

There are moments in any travelers life that you know and deeply appreciate why you leave the comfort of  your home, pack a bag, put up with airports and the challenge of long flights, and navigate different languages and cultures.

And this was one of these moments for Fred and me, spending time with our friends Collen and Sarah, being away from the crowds  in a beautiful remote part of Croatia among the ruins of Malo Grablje, meeting a remarkable man, hearing his story, being fed an authentic meal with the ease and confidence of someone who knows and understands his roots, his heritage and his land. 

It's a harsh and unforgiving landscape and life has not been simple but he can show us a New York Times article from 2011 featuring him and his Konoba and we experience him just the same as the journalist and I have no doubt that he will continue his authentic path.

Number 25 in my year of a hundred different things has shifted something in me and I feel grateful.

A meal to remember: 3 starter plates - cheese, olives, tomato, Dalmation smoked ham (called Prsut); octopus salad; anchovies and capers. Lamb peka. Melted, mild goats cheese with honey. Prosek (sweet red desert wine). Sugared almonds. Turkish coffee.

Number 24: The joy of Extra Virgin Olive Oil on Hvar Island

Murvica Olive Oil, Jelsa, Hvar Island, Croatica

A little bit of google research led Sarah and I down a dusty side road in Jelsa to meet Angelika 

Gurdulic of Murvica Restaurant, for an olive oil tasting and to buy her homemade products.

I have so appreciated learning about the Dalmatian olive varietals and making evo oil converts and evo oil snobs of Collen and Sarah!

Number 24:

The joy of Extra Virgin Olive Oil on Hvar Island.

The island of Hvar is dominated by the Dalmation Oblica olive along with a few other indigenous varieties. These olives makes a delicious oil with moderate bitterness and pungency and a strong smell of fresh olives.

The small scale olive groves are dotted all around the island on every available piece of land  surrounded by stonewalls. Not only olive trees but also vines, fig trees, rows of vegetables and other fruit trees too, the islanders are industrious and have made the best of the endless sunshine and rocky soils.

A typical scene on Hvar Island. Olive trees both old and new.

We have been lathering our fresh, crusty bread and salads with Angelika’s oil, a completely wonderful part of our stay. And as one restauranteur said to us while sharing her pungent new season oil: "This what we do, we make our own olive oil."

Number 23: Diocletian Split and Game of Thrones, an evening with Vjeran Mlacic

The remarkably well preserved Roman architecture in Split made for fantastic location choices for the Game of Thrones TV series. Fred and I are fans.  I have even waded through all 7 books of the George RR Martin books, thanks to June and Ross.

Number 23:

Diocletian Split and Game of Thrones, an evening with Vjeran Mlacic

Diocletian Palace basement halls built between 295-305 AD,
also the scenes of Daenerys interactions with her dragons in Game of Thrones.

The Game of Thrones shop in Split put me touch with VJ and he made time for a private tour last evening for the four of us. Collen and Sarah had arrived earlier in the day from the UK and it was thrilling to meet up over beers, wine and a G&T.
We loved the walkabout, digging deep into the Roman history for Fred, but also been shown the locations where the GoT seasons 4 and 5 were filmed. Dragons, Meereen, Daenerys, battle scenes with the Sons of Harpy, the Unsullied, the Kill the Masters scene and so much more.
Collen and Sarah belong to the rare club of never having watched the series but they were loving it all anyway.

Team K and Team B in Split, exploring the Game of Thrones film sets.

VJ is fabulous! Loves his city, is passionate about history and tells the stories with ease.

Contact email for a private tour is vjeranmlacic@gmail.com.

Number 22: Croatia, we have now been to 1/5 of the world's countries.

Kersten Countries Visited Map

Looking at our map, we have travelled and yet we have not.
To date we have visited 20% of the world's countries!

Number 22:

Croatia, we have now been to 1/5 of the world's countries

I am captivated by Split, our first stop here in Croatia.
The light on these centuries old stones of Split is subtle and striking.
In Split, Medieval is new, eclipsed by Roman architecture! 

Captivating Split.

Number 21: Finding bears in Freising, Bavaria

The story of a bear dominates Freising, a small Bavarian town near Munich Airport. A Frankish missionary bishop, Corbinian, had arrived at the court of the Bavarian duke in Freising in 715, with his bear.
So we went bear spotting this morning.

Number 21: 

Finding bears in Freising, Bavaria

And we found plenty. 

After a night on a plane, it was such a treat to be outdoors on this sunny warm morning, taking in the wild spring flowers, the loads of flowering plants at the market on Marienplatz, walking along the river, hearing the Blue Tits calling, watching a coot feed her young, and ambling around the Freising Cathedral. 

A good coffee and wonderful pastries, we have landed.

A morning in Freising, among the bears.

A reflective moment at the Freising Cathedral.
The Baroque portal from 1681 has a statue of St. Corbinian and his bear.

Number 20: Round the World every time, a unique friendship

Fred capturing a Pied Kingfisher

A round trip from Hawaii to Johannesburg is 25000 miles, a round the world trip, so how about doing that trip 15 times in 8  years!

We are home after a few days in the Pilansberg National Park with our friends from Maui, the John's and they have just left for their 14th trip to the Kruger National Park.

NUMBER 20:

Round the World every time 

It is their deep appreciation for the wildlife here in South Africa that keeps them coming back, loaded with cameras, lenses, iPads and lists. 

They have been to more than 10 of our parks over the last 8 years, but it's Kruger that they love. During their 14 Kruger trips, which is over 150 days in the park, they have stayed at all the camps and bush camps and driven every road many times over. 

In 2017 we met up 3 times, twice in the Kruger National Park, we hiked the wild flower trails in the West Coast National Park and went out to sea from Cape Town on a 4 day pelagic for seabirds! 

We met in the summer of 2013 at the Karoo National Park, they were star gazing, a glass of red wine in hand, when Fred decided to share some of his knowledge about our southern skies. 

The friendship has been easy, heated when politics is the topic, but so unique in that we can spend many, many hours together in a car, loving the bush, taking amazing photographs and videos, game and birdwatching, having a breakfast 'skottle' and an evening braai, and I keep learning more about our parks and our wildlife, from these 'tourists'. 

A glimpse of a Brown Hyena!

See you both in Cortina, Italy in June, for hikes in the Dolomites and good food! 

PS - it's December, another South African trip and KNP for another two visits.