I emailed Collen about our 2 bedroomed apartment in Jelsa, Hvar Island and asked if he and Sarah wanted to join us.
He said yes, how I loved that reply.
Number 26:
Exploring the sights and flavours of Croatia with Collen and Sarah.
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| A window into the world of Split and Hvar Island, Croatia, may 2018. |
Watched the sunrise from our balcony in Jelsa, Hvar Island.
Walked the old city of Split, following in the footsteps of Emperor Diocletian and the TV series Game of Thrones with our guide Vjeran Mlacic.
Navigated the steep flights of steps up the Split Bell Tower and the winding flight of stairs to the Marjan Peninsula, where we walked around the wooded peninsula.
Hopped on the Jadrolinija ferry from Split to Stari Grad.
Hired a Renault to explore Hvar Island, Fred and Collen laughed and joked with the entrepreneurial young Daniel.
Joined Sarah for Sunday Mass at the parish church of St Mary Magdalene in Svirce and quietly took in the strong clear voices of the choir echoing under the dome.
Had G&T sundowners on our balcony, the exotic Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin, a gift from Collen.
Listened to church bells.
People watched along the Riva.
Identified a surprising bird for my European list, a Turtle Dove and heard the Scops Owl calling all night.
Popped into a bakery each day to try different breads, all quite perfect.
Provisioned at markets.
Marveled at the UNESCO Stari Grad Plain, a cultural landscape unchanged since the 4thC BC Greek colonisers, each square centimeter under crops, vines and olive groves and separated by dry stone walls.
Appreciated the yellow broom in flower and the red of poppies standing out against the grey stones on our early morning walk on the plain.
Found the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, a cuckoo was calling, wandered around lost for a while before falling into Berti Tudor’s remarkable Konoba called Stori Komin to experience a Peka, the traditional island style of cooking under a bell surrounded by a wood fire.
Swam in the Adriatic, off a pebble beach called Dubovica, such a lovely secluded bay.
Treated ourselves to coffee and a cheese burek along our walks.
Strode out along the magnificent 5 km coastal road between Jelsa and Vrboska, watching the sea change colour and mood.
Bought traditional honey biscuits called, paprejnok, with a history going back to 1167, from a bakery in Stari Grad. Our biscuits were shaped as fish.
Drove the Pitve – Zavala tunnel; a rough, damp tunnel with poor visibility, and Fred was the first to swim in the clear, warm Adriatic Sea at Zavala.
Enjoyed an abundance of seafood; grilled sea bass, fish soup, octopus salad, prawns with chickpeas and seafood pasta.
Bought delicious olive oil, fig jam and tomato jam from Angelika at Murvica in Jelsa.
Bought 'flowers of salt' in Split, a premium Adriatic salt in a limestone container.
Ambled along the Route 116 to Sucuraj and took in the fabulous views across the Adriatic Sea to the mainland of Croatia or out to the further Dalmation islands beyond Hvar.
Had a peaceful leisurely Sunday lunch on a veranda floating above the marina and fishing harbor at Vrboska, a gem here on Hvar with its canal and stone bridges.
Drank the local beer, carafes of the local white wine and tried different varieties of prosek, a sweet desert wine.
Climbed the many steps of the 16thC Fortress Fortica Spanjola for the exceptional views of Hvar Town, the ‘little French Riviera’ of the island.
Pottered around Stari Grad, the 'old town' which has been around for more than 2400 years, 'smashed' pizzas and enjoyed tea and cakes.
