Number 65: Walking the Wild South Coast, Wellington

Planning is weather dependent in Wellington. Today was a perfect spring day and what better to plan than a magnificent walk on the wild side far away from the crowds along Oriental Bay.

Number 65:

Walking the Wild South Coast, Wellington.

Our destination was Owhiro Bay to walk the wild and spectacular coastal road to the well-known Red Rocks and then further along to the  seal haul-out at Sinclair Head, to see the huge male New Zealand Fur Seals. 

A new path for Fred and I here in Wellington and a keeper. The snow-capped mountains of the South Island gleamed across Cook Strait creating a quite surreal landscape amid the huge deep blue skies, the black beaches with bleached debris and a calm sea!

Wellington's South Coast, heading out from Owhiro Bay towards the Red Rocks.

The tin red Red Rocks with the snow-capped mountains of South Island across the Cook Strait.

Red, green, purple and grey. Intriguing and complex geology at play, Too much to grapple with so I just enjoyed the scene.

The good life!

Number 64: Aesop Concept Store and Indulgence

'Indulgence: an occasion when you allow yourself to have something enjoyable; especially more than is good for you.'

Number 64:

Aesop Concept Store and Indulgence

So I completely understand that indulgence is who I am. 

Having admitted this I have to have at least one blog post for this year of 100 Different Things about an indulgent moment.

My indulgence of choice; a visit to the Aesop signature store situated in a Wellington landmark, the 1930's Art Deco Change House. And what a magnificently designed space, abundant use of natural timber, brass tap ware and muted light. As is my want I indulged in this iconic Australian brand of skincare, it was physical and sensory, a herbal tea drink, a sense of occasion and just a little theatrical, thanks to Josh.

An indulgence, Aesop in Wellington.

Number 63: Buggies Go Bush, a morning at Zealandia

Blues skies, no wind and just perfect for our first visit to Zealandia, a conservation success right in the heart of Wellington. The fencing keeps out the possums, stoats, cats and rats, so the birds are able to flourish as do the other creatures. It is a true gem.

Number 63:

Buggies Go Bush, a morning at Zealandia

Our little bug at Zealandia.

Wednesday is story time at the Cafe, so we joined in, James less so as he was more interested in playing with an ice-cream truck - such a little boy! Only the girls sat attentively. 

The paths through Zealandia are such a pleasure, deep into indigenous bush with tui's calling, kaka's flying across, kereru flopping into the trees and I even glimpsed a saddleback. 

We all loved the closeup views of the prehistoric tuatara too. 

A morning at Zealandia.

Number 62: A fluffy and choosing wellingtons, Wellington indeed.

One of the joys of being grandparents has been the experience of shopping again for babies. And shop we have, from New York to Paris and all sorts of places in between, clothes stores and book shops being my favorite!

Number 62:

A fluffy and choosing wellingtons, Wellington indeed.

Babyccino and fish chocolate, after shopping relaxing!

One of the best shopping experience was the summer sales at Galleries Lafayette where Fred and I spent hours looking at baby clothing for James, the July before he was born. We came away with bags from Catimini an exciting French children's brand.

A memory of shopping in Paris.

And here we are, taking our little man for our first shopping experience with him.

Less leisurely, less designer, but still a treat. 

The goal were wellingtons, his shoes of choice to go to Daisies and to work in the garden with his Dad. All he wanted was the adult sized wellies and he was a bit disappointed that they were not an option! 

Any shopping spree has to end at a coffee shop where we had flat whites and James a babyccino. Got to love it all.

Shopping for wellingtons with Pops.

Number 61: 'Curious Creatures and Marvelous Monsters' at Te Papa.

Our first art exhibition for kids with James at the Te Papa National Museum, a landmark here in Wellington, and an exceptional, world-class museum. With a exhibit called 'Curious Creatures and Marvelous Monsters', I couldn't wait to see James' response.

James interacting with one of the oddities of Michael Parekowkai's Detour Exhibit.

Number 61:

'Curious Creatures and Marvelous Monsters'

Magical, monstrous and imagined creatures from Te Papa's art collection put together in an interactive and creative way to entertain and amuse little people. 

And James was certainly intrigued, opening 'mouse' doors at floor level and peeping into the art, looking through portholes at strange creatures, touching, listening, drawing and playing. 

It was magical and a delightful outing for Nan and Pops with our little man.

Arriving at Te Papa, braving the sneaky cold wind!

Curious Creatures indeed!

Marvelous Monsters.

Number 60: Our birthday boy

It has been a most anticipated occasion, getting to New Zealand to join in all the birthday celebrations. Our grandson is two, simply wonderful.

Number 60:

Our birthday boy.

A little boy; waking up to singing, candles and loads of presents, is the next generation and how I love the awareness of the circles of life. Shawni remembering her special birthday parties and here she is, a dedicated mother, creating beautiful moments for her child. 

I love the story of the small car that James is playing with, it's a Mini that belonged to my father and we brought it with us, yet another circle of memories.

"Car" James playing with my father's little green Mini.

"Cook" Craig and Shawni hoping for a little Junior Masterchef!

James loving his 'zoom zoom' 2nd birthday party!

James' at Daisies celebrating with his friends.

Number 59: A new home in Khandallah, Wellington New Zealand not India

A Wellington suburb named for the old Khandallah Homestead built here in 1884 during the Railway expansion by Captain James Andrew. He had just arrived from India so the streets of Khandallah have mainly Indian names.
The suburb is our home for the next month.

Number 59:

A new home in Khandalla, Wellington New Zealand not India

A home in Khandallah, Wellington.

After long and very eventful flights from South Africa we are settled. Since my last visit Shawni and Craig have bought a new home in Khandallah.
The weather and jet lag are keeping me indoors so I have been pottering, enjoying the glorious views, the lush vegetation, getting a feel for this new space in our lives and being with James.

Number 58: Streetfood of Norwood

I have been home here in Norwood for the month of August and I have consciously embraced 'hygge': slowing down; taking pleasure in the textures and warmth of winter in my home, my quilts and mohair blanket; a fire in the kitchen and special time with a friend, baking and making soups; candles and incense; knitting for my little man in New Zealand; a huge mug of tea watching a favorite TV series; going to bed early; keeping travel to a minimum and walking everywhere; sitting in the sun on the veranda watching the birds; reading copiously;...
I have been decluttering my photos on my laptop too and looking for special photos for my Instagram feed and I am smiling as my choice for this morning was a foodie memory from Saint-Emilion in France, a two star Michelin fine dining experience while this blog is about the streetfood of Norwood!

Number 58:

Streetfood of Norwood.

Among these gentle, restful winter days Fred and I have ventured out on our walks to explore the tastes of the streetfood around us for our blog.

My first story is a street vendor called Octavia, we pass her each time we walk on one of the busy intersections coming into our suburb, she is shy and was a bit bemused by our interest in trying her food. 

All you need to is a few coins in your back packet to buy from Octavia, everything is one rand. We bought 'vetkoek' a South African staple, a delicious ball of fried dough, crisp on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside - serious walking carbs! 

Meeting Octavia.

Meeting Sam, Baker Brothers, Norwood

The next story is Sam, he is a new entrepreneur along Grant Avenue in Norwood. 

He is a baker and hails  from the famous Ile de Pain in Kynsna. He has opened a bakery in The Factory courtyard and our walks now incorporate a pop past Sam to pick up our bread and croissants - I cannot possibly embrace 'hygge' without the freshest of breads! 

Also making their mark on our streetfood adventuring during August are Sumting Fresh and Baha Taco.

'Sumting Fresh' is a small Norwood eatery, with young vibey 20-somethings selling great to-go food - the business also does food trucks and markets around Johannesburg. We took an exhausted Justin, who had been caring for Ingrid post her hip replacement op, to try out their legendary Gujon Chicken and Gua Bao. Crispy, tasty and very moreish. 

Of course, no streetfood exploring in Norwood is complete without Mexican flavors, so I headed off to Baha Taco with Janet, as a treat to see her off on her trip to Europe. The nachos hit the mark as did the vegetarian taco's with haloumi.

Streetfood eateries along Grant Avenue in Norwood.

Number 57: Gifting my hair to CANSA

One of my daily practices is to be lighter in the world, I look with intent at my spaces and everything in my places.

I declutter, I repurpose, I gift, I regift, I pass it on, I donate, I arrange, I trash, I organise, I use, I make, I fix, I share, I consume, I provision with a light hand, I purchase when replacing...

Number 57:

Gifting my hair to CANSA 

The practice is creative and highly rewarding. The cumulative effect of many years of this practice has been remarkable. Sometimes the actions I take are very small, like passing on hangers but sometimes, like today, the actions are far more meaningful to me.

Today I took out a small plastic bag from my trunk. My hair. Three long plaits, cut when I was 13 years old. Looking at my photos, these thick brown plaits feature in all my school photos. Mom made a special moment of the trip to the hairdresser, took photos and then kept the hair for me. Now, 5 decades later I am looking at my hair, remembering and know that it is time to let my couple of meters of hair go and to keep just the memories that are wrapped up in the plastic bag.

So to honor my mother, who died of cancer 25 years ago, I am taking my hair to CANSA's Head Office in Befordview. They accept donations and have wigs made which are given to cancer survivors who need it most.

A photo taken by my Mom the day I went to the hairdresser, age 13 and my couple of meters of hair.

Number 6, Part 5: Seeing my city through its Art Galleries: Art Strip on Jan Smuts

Time to get exploring, the hint of spring is the Johannesburg air, bringing hayfever but also blossoms and warmer weather. So Martie and I headed off to the Goodman Gallery, the heart of an exciting art precinct colloquially called Art Strip on Jan Smuts.

Number 6, Part 5: 

Seeing my city through its Art Galleries: Art Strip on Jan Smuts

A excerpt from a David Goldblatt quote at the 'On Common Ground' exhibition at the Goodman so resonated with us:

"Johannesburg is seldom a beautiful city, it has its rare moments. I can't honestly say that I love it. However I miss it when I am away and when I am in it I rejoice."

We shared one of these rare moments exploring this vibrant contemporary art scene. Our ambling took us to the longstanding Goodman Gallery and Kim Sacks Gallery, to Lizamore & Ass but also into the newer, exciting urban space called Art One Sixty where we popped into Gallery 2 and David Krut Projects. 

The precinct is a unique mix of established and emerging artists, co-operation and competition with diverse artistic styles and genres. 

We were heartbroken by the Goldblatt and Magubane photographs, charmed by the Clementina van Der Walt's delicate pottery and interested in Mongezi's approach to art through his love of music. 

The foodie scene is part of the eclectic mix along this block of Jan Smuts. Our choice was the hip Asian-inspired Saigon Suzi. I rejoiced.

A stimulating visit to Art Strip on Jan Smuts.

Number 56: Planning a Twitch at the St. Lucia Estuary, northern KwaZulu-Natal

A churny tummy is a good sign that planning has started on a twitch, which bears no resemblance to birding, mostly because of the 'spend large amounts of money and travel long distances' as per the quote below.
But also because of the likelihood of failure.

Number 56:

Planning a Twitch at the St. Lucia Estuary, northern KwaZulu-Natal.

I am not a dedicated twitcher and can count on one hand the number of trips I have made to pursue a rarity. A penguin in 2009 comes to mind, where I booked a ticket, flew to Cape Town from Johannesburg, drove a couple of hundred kilometers to see a bedraggled bird on a beach; another was a one day 1500 km roundtrip from Johannesburg to Pongola to see the Golden Pipit; another the trip with Doreen to Phinda Game Reserve last year to find the Malagasy Pond Heron.

So, how can I not do a twitch this year for my 100 Different Things.

Fred and I dipped on our first attempt at finding the Sooty Tern at St Lucia quite some years ago and it has been showing itself again. The SA Rare Bird Report on the 23rd July mentioned that the bird had been seen at the estuary, so here goes, attempt number 2. The first attempt was a hot, humid New Year and now a mid-winter attempt.

Twitching process:

1. Discuss with Fred, he says no.
2. Let is rest for a little while.
3. Fred says maybe.
4. Call Themba of Themba Birding in St. Lucia and see if he is free.
5. He is indeed.
6. Mention to Fred again, he is warming to the idea.
7. Logistical planning starts, I am in Amanzimtoti, some 265km from St. Lucia, so easy enough for me and I have the car.
8. Fred however is in Cape Town, flying back to Johannesburg. So I need to convince him to fly to Durban, fetch him and then drive up to St. Lucia. This could be a hard sell, but this is the nature of twitching, also the camera equipments, binocs and bird books are in Johannesburg and we need them.
9. We will need to overnight in St Lucia as we are planning two attempts for the Tern, late afternoon and early morning.
10. Look at Airbnb options but first need to look at Fred's logistics.
11. Just had an email from Fred, he has bought a ticket, so the twitch is on.
12. Sent a message to Themba.
13. Booked a little cottage in St Lucia for the Friday overnight on Airbnb.
14. Morning of the twitch has arrived, can feel the fluttering of nervous energy.
15. Uneventful drive up the North Coast of KZN.
16. We are on track for the 2pm hook-up with Themba and arrange to pick him up at the Dukuduku Gate just before the bridge into St. Lucia.
17. At Ingwe Beach we park and sort out the cameras, binocs and pull on walking shoes and start to walk along the Estuary Beach making for the mudflats behind the sand dunes.
18. As we approach the flats, the skies are dark and moody but we see flocks of birds, Caspian Terns, small waders, Avocets and Stilts, pelicans, Egyptian Geese and gulls.
19. Themba calls excitedly, pair of Sooty Terns!
20. So thrilled, I have a Sooty Tern in sight. The twitch has been a success.
21. I quietly sit on the sand bank and watch the birds, as Fred creeps closer to get some photos.
22. Thema mutters to me that Fred should be a bit more careful as there are crocodiles in the estuary. Just then Fred hustles back and sinks knee deep into the mud, fortunately he is agile enough to not get his rig wet.
23. Eventually the Sooty's get tried of being mobbed by the gulls and they head off to sea. We also head back to drop Themba off in town and check into our cottage.
24. Glass of wine to celebrate and seafood dinner at the Ski Club, dorado and yellowtail fresh from the Indian Ocean. Fred can now watch the rugby tomorrow as no attempt 2 needed.
25. Content.

Sooty Terns, St Lucia mudflats.

Sooty Tern been harassed.

Quote from Trevor Hardaker, on zestforbirds.co.za:

Twitcher: A birder in all the good sense of the term during normal times, but responds with frenzied activity to news of rarities in his region, and will spend large amounts of money and travel long distances at short notice in order to see a rarity or new bird. Consequently is the subject of scorn from certain birdwatchers who find this eagerness to see new birds distasteful. Is often accused (and sometimes guilty) of contravening the Code of Ethics in his desire to see a new bird. Due to his extra focus on rare species, it is the twitcher who very often discovers new or rare species in the region.

Number 55: Virtual holidaying in France and Le Tour

Le Tour, or Le Tour de France, is an annual tradition here in the Kersten household. Twenty-one cycle stages during the coldest time of our year but during the glorious northern hemisphere July summertime, and how I love to watch the French scenery which is an integral part of the broadcast. The villages, the churches and cathedrals, the chateaux and abbeys, mountains, rivers and coastlines, vast fields of ripening crops, golden fields of sunflowers, it's my annual virtual holiday in France.

A project, afternoon sun and TV coverage of Le Tour de France.

Number 55:

Virtual holidaying in France and Le Tour

Le Tour fascination started after we lived in France for a couple of years in the mid-eighties. As the decade passed, I would come home from work in the July dark and cold feeling excited to watch the daily 2 hour highlights program. I can clearly remember so wanting to be able to be on the couch, listening to Phil Liggett, the legendary English professional cycling commentator, watching the live broadcast.

And now I do just that, I watch the live coverage and I love it.

Fred, Martie and I in Annecy, France in the mid-eighties.

We now keep our calendar free in July - as best we can; and we make a date to watch the cycling. Our favorite place to be is at the Loft, the milder Amanzimtoti weather is lovely and of course walking on the beach is much nicer than pounding the Norwood streets.

The July rhythm is special, early morning walking, provisioning for the day, cooking, for me finding a project and for Fred, tackling home maintenance. This year I am finishing an interesting brick jacket for James, a knitting project designed by Horst Schulz, it's tricky, needs patience and just perfect for Le Tour. Fred is tackling blistering walls, scraping and painting and all sorts of other chores that need to happen here at the Loft.

Yesterday Le Tour started in Annecy in the French Alps and we were treated to magnificent helicopter views of the town, the pristine lake and the Alps, especially of snow-capped Mont Blanc.

So I went and dug out some of our old photos of our time in Annecy. 

It was 1986, we were living in Marly le Roi, and Martie came to visit us with Jessica, who is the same age as Barry. Such special memories of children and friendship and that is what Le Tour does, it makes me remember and makes me want to create more memories in France.

Number 54: Wonder of Rock Art: Lascaux Cave, Johannesburg

Understanding the complexity of the
Lascaux cave paintings and engravings

July two years ago, Fred and I were driving through Montignac, France, thinking we might visit the prehistoric Lascaux Caves of Dordogne, en route to seeing my cousins in Aquitaine.
I had not done any pre-planning and the visit did not happen. Summer queues, limited English tour times, so we pottered around the village and drove past the impressive Lascaux II complex, a replica of the caves built in 1983, as Lascaux has been closed to the public since the mid sixties.

Number 54: 

Wonder of Rock Art: Lascaux Cave, Johannesburg

I did feel dejected missing the Lascaux experience. One of the many first year courses I did at Wits University in the 1970's was 'History of Art 1', which started with prehistoric art and specifically with the paintings of Lascaux. I can still recall the slides our lecturer used and I was enthralled by the vivid images from the Hall of Bulls, specifically the Great Black Bull.

So Martie, Katie and I headed off early this morning to the fascinating interactive exhibition at Sci-Bono to learn about Lascaux, a collaboration with the French Embassy.

We were completely taken in by the discovery and story of the caves. The finely crafted replicas and exhibits certainly helped recreate the magnificence of this 20000 year old cave art! Wow, is all I could say...

A sewing needle used by Cro Magnon man/woman, not changed in design or shape!

Quote: Norbert Aujoulat (1946-2011) who spent 25 years recording the images and symbols at Lascaux. 

"Lascaux gets its suggestive power from the permanent presence of the image: wherever you are, an animal is looking at you, questioning you. Throughout the cave's omnipresent wild oxen, horses, deer, bison and ibexes, we see the dominating imprint of man."