Secret world of walkers

A dear friend Sharon, after reading Wild, Cheryl Strayed book about hiking the PCT was quite shocked about the stories of Cheryl's blisters while on the trail.

Another Sharon, who is on the Camino at the moment, is also managing the hardship of long distance walkers - blisters, rain and any number of other challenges.

I asked the women walking with me to list their aches and pains:

• calf muscles, hip muscles, knees, shins, a bunion, a spider bite, heat rashes and blisters, allergies, split lips, flu symptoms, coughs, running noses.

This photo is not for the faint-hearted, but I need it as a reminder of my own personal challenge on this walk, because the shock of the pain will recede as it always does and the beauty of our experiences will be what lives on.

For the lovely ladies: Mary-Ann, Luciel, Sannie, Denise, Caren, Marike, Beverley.

Day 9: 270km of 301km, walking into Clanwilliam

Proteas among the daisies

Our early morning routine was a pleasure this morning, stretches at dawn and on the road soon after, this first 8 or so kilometres of walking are always lovely, we are energised after a good sleep and looking forward to the day.

After breakfast we packed, left our cottages and turned left out of the gate to tackle the next 15 kilometres.

I immediately battled, could not get my rhythm going and the pain of my feet was making me feel ill. Even Fred has the odd blister now! At least the beauty of these proteas and the other flowers along our route were a pleasurable distraction.

At our rest stop among the potato fields outside of Clanwilliam, I noticed that one of the blisters was exposed, so Frik did a quick repair, I took some serious pain killers and enjoyed the rest of the day, far more at ease and particularly enjoying our first time in the Cederberg.

We also had a taste of the dramatic rock formations of the Cederberg, walking past the Soldier's Head. We will have to come back and spend more time here.

Cederberg, Soldier's Head rock formation

• Walking log: 24th August

270km of 301km.

We are now nearing the end of our Eco Ventures Ultra Walk. I can feel the pressure of this event slowly peeling back and finished today with relief. We have this in the bag. 

Finding the huge Clanwilliam Daisy

One of the target flowers during our stay here in the Cederberg is the sunny bright yellow Clanwilliam Daisy. It's a large untidy bush with these massive flowers.

They make one smile.

Day 8: 240km of 301km, Namaqualand Daisies

How I love these happy faces!

We left the Knersvlakte after the first short walk of the day and headed further south to walk along the secondary road into Clanwilliam. The road is wedged between the Olifants River and the foothills of the Cederberg.

Fred was in a happy space finding wonderful flowers to photograph along the way. I so enjoy his excitement when he sees a new bloom and get the 'perfect' shot'!

I had been looking forward to seeing masses of the white Namaqualand daisies, they are a delight and did not disappoint.

I found the going tough though, the weather swings from the early morning cool to the heat over midday and we had some 20km to do along this hot and dusty road.
Even the refreshment stop did not seem to revive me.

Eventually we flopped into our cottage at Boskloof Swemgat, had a lovely meal put together by Frik and a good nights sleep too.

• Walking log: 23rd August

240km of 301km, another day in the bag. 

I have been walking with Luciel from Messina, she and I have a similar pace and we help each other with the pace setting, which makes a difference to the walk.

Walking towards Clanwilliam

Knersvlakte: Finger-and-thumbs and Baby Bums

Vast and flat, glistening with white quartzite gravel, the Knervlakte

Finger-and-thumb succulent

I realised very quickly on this trip that I will not easily retain all the plant and flower names that have been shared with us, but these two succulents on the Knersvlakte, the succulent Karoo, will definitely stick with me, the finger-and-thumb and the baby bum!

This is a unique place of miniature succulents dotted among the quartz, which grinds underfoot as we did our first walk of the day. These plants have an extraordinary instinct for survival which they need for the extreme heat of summer.

Baby's Bum succulent

It was about paying attention to the tiniest details, quite remarkable

• Walking log: 23 August

The change in rhythm today was quite a challenge for walking today. We did not do an early walk as we needed to get to the succulents and we had the comforting breakfast too. So it felt like a rude awakening to be walking on a happy tum!

Even more frustrating for me is that I developed another blister, I am managing 9 blisters....

Message from my sister Doreen, who has been carefully guiding me from afar on this walk:

'Succulents have stored water to see themselves through dryness..you are rich in reserves,,you are an incredibly strong, determined woman and you have everything you need including the most supportive husband to finish the next 3 days. When you see the succulents you will know you are going to be just fine!'

Garies to the Knersvlakte.

A welcoming stop here in Garies. The Stal(i) in town opened their doors for us last night and we had game pie served with stewed dried peaches, a local speciality which was so good.

Fred bought us a 5 year old Quiver tree for our Cape Town garden as a memento, it is no more that half a metre in height as they are slow growers. He also found a signed second-hand copy of "Garden of the Gods" (1984) by the American photographer Freeman Patterson. It is an iconic book from the region.

We keep heading south each day now and our first stop is the Knervlakte for a walk about among the succulents.

Before the walk though we were treated to 'roosterbroodjies', butter, cheese and jams with huge mugs of 'moerkoffie' at the Knersvlakte Spens. The wood fire was going and we were dressed in a few layers keeping warm. Such pleasure in the simple things in life. The family here are succulent specialists and have run a nursery for some 50 years.

We were also given a talk on what to look out for on our walk into the Knersvlakte.

Day 7: 210 kilometres on the road to Garies

Another 30 km on the road into Garies

After lunch we walked the final stretch into Garies where we are based tonight.

The gentle pace that Luciel and I walked gave us the time to take pleasure in the wild flowers along the road.

They are so delicate and so beautiful. Dotted in the sand, sometimes as individuals other times in groups.

We never get tired of looking and paying attention.

Frik plays music in the vehicle and we particularly enjoy the Zirk Bergh song:

Wie't all daai blomme geplant, 

ja, daai bloom in Namaqualand, 

waar kom all die blomme vandaan, 

all die blomme wat heir so staan.

• Walking Log: 22 August

210km of 301km completed. A week of waking up and walking 30km each day. This physical challenge is way out of my comfort zone and I still just a little surprised at our determination.  

The nights are not easy either, Frik told us all the sleep with the mattress raised at our feet to help with the throbbing we feel in our lower limbs and feet. And throb they do!

Fred having a break

Fred has been a huge support this whole year, walking with me even though it was not always what he felt like doing, carry the backpack, doing all that was required to keep us going.

This trip he has taken glorious photos, I just keep going, all I carry is Lip-ice, and he runs to catch me after he has taken the shots he wants.

He supports all of us if we flag, entertains with stories, walks with some of the stronger women now and again, and sings most of the way.

He has been concerned with the state of my feet but never been frustrated when my pace has to slow down when the pain overwhelms me.

Today he delighted in the stream, and yesterday at the dam, and I can see that this experience is bringing him pleasure too.

Thank you Fred.

Fresh creamy farm milk

The dawn walk started at Leliesfontein, the high point of the Kamiesberge.

We were packed and all in the vehicle by 5.30 am, we are a disciplined group, always on time and organised, although Fred keeps everyone entertained when he leaves stuff behind!

The weather was different yet again, overcast, little warmer and the scenery from our starting point through Groenkloof was so lovely. Not as dry and looking so much lusher than yesterday's section of the Kamiesberge. We even had a few drops of rain. Walking is so much easier when the weather is kind.

Our breakfast break after 11km was at the farm, Koornlandskloof. As we arrived we were met by an elderly lady, the farmer's wife, and she handed us a bucket of fresh milk, thick and yellow with cream.

As always there is nothing nicer than some good food after walking, Frik and Jaco treated us to sandwiches and I had a few cups of coffee with the luscious milk. A little bit of heaven on a Namaqualand farm. I was happy.

I felt as though I floated through the next 10 kilometres, even my feet receded as a background noise and it was one of the nicest stretches of walking I have done.

"But I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more..."

My favourite windmill by far.

"But I would walk 500 miles

And I would walk 500 more

Just to be the man who walked a thousand miles

To fall down at your door"

The Proclaimers song has been playing in the vehicle for a week now and today was the day that Fred and I got to the 1000 mile milestone. 

I have been tracking our  kilometres since the 9th January and I so excited with this achievement.

At the same time we crossed the 200km mark on our Eco Ultra Walk here in Namaqualand, so we all danced over the line, high stepped, high five'd and had such fun.

200 kilometres and still counting!

Day 6: Another 30km, 180km in the bag walking the Kamiesberge to Noupoort

Walking in the Kamiesberge

The lack of rain is evident, a parched landscape, dry river beds, and by the time we were walking the last of the two 10km stretches it was very warm. The road was good, broad and easier on the feet than the sandy roads we are used to.

The grasslands up beyond the Kamies Pass are mainly pasture fields for sheep or goats and dotted with farmsteads. Frik was saying its the driest he has seen this part of Namaqualand in 25 years and it is having an affect on the farmers.

When we arrived at our end point, at the tiny hamlet of Noupoort, a group of small children made up a welcoming party and sing about Bushmanland. Fred enjoyed his interaction with them and passed on his energy bars as treats.

• Walking log: 21st August

180km of 301km. 

Managing well, walking steadily. Recovering reasonably quickly too once we are done for the day. It is no small effort to be on one's feet for 8 hours.

A new blister has emerged today under my big toe, it too is lanced and plastered, my feet are almost comical in their misery.

Walking Kamies Pass

Eco Ventures team supporting us up Kamies Pass

Our dawn ritual.

Up for coffee and a rusk, into the vehicle to drive to our starting point for the day, exercises to warm up and we then start the first walk of the day.

I woke up fragile this morning, but pulled on my layers, had my feet strapped and got going after some lovely supportive messages and a call from Lee in Australia that was inspired.

The Kamies Pass is wonderful, a good 10km walk on some steep sections and switchbacks. It is still cold early morning and we had a strong wind coming down the mountain. My feet hold up well going uphill so I really enjoyed this first walk, watching the sun come up and seeing the lovely valley below us.

Sunrise on Kamieskroon from our walk up Kamies Pass

The breakfast stop was at a wonderful old Namaqualand farm, Jaco and Frik prepared breakfast rolls for us with coffee while we rested up and took in this rural scene of old. 
The quaint white house which housed the blacksmith and his bellows, the well and hand pump and the original flour mill in the annex of the main farm house. Makes my heart sore that our rural legacy is so under pressure. 
You can rent this house as on overnighter during flower season. Another must on a bucket list, stay on a Namaqualand Farm and walk.

Looking for inspiration

Delicate flowers up the Kamiesberge

The flowers we saw along the sandy farm road yesterday, were so delicate, sparse and tinier too, but no less exquisite.

My mind is rebelling, I am having my early morning coffee and rusk, my eyes are red and puffy from my restless uncomfortable sleep.

My feet are swollen and throbbing and the thought of putting on my shoes makes me want to weep. This day 6 could be challenging so I thought I would look for inspiration among Fred's flower photos.